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HydroSeeding Is Not Seasonal.

   When I first started HydroSeeding, I heard of a seldom used "dormant seeding" technique.  Hiding un-hulled Bermudagrass seed under a temporary rye-grass lawn allowed planting commercial lawns out of season.  I was also warned it didn't actually work very often.

   In the Fall of 1993 I had an opportunity to try the technique in the Phoenix area.  We moved our Company to Arizona the following Spring, and because of that first year success, we used it to plant many lawns over the next Winter.  It took several years to make it work everytime.

   We can plant a beautiful, permanent new lawn no matter what time of year you're ready to have it installed.  When the night time temperatures fall below 70 degrees we switch to un-hulled seed.  (It's protective skin is intact so it will remain dormant until the the soil warms up. 

   You'll have a nice Winter lawn because we add a controlled amount of a special "intermediate ryegrass" to the HydroSeeding mix. Intermediate (or transitional) ryegrass will germinate even when the soil temperature drops below 40 degrees. It doesn't usually get that cold in the Phoenix area. 

   Even though it can take longer to establish a lawn in Winter, the watering isn't nearly as critical.  (If we plant it in December or January, you'll only water once or twice a day for the first 3 weeks.)  The following June, when it's hot enough to burn-out the ryegrass, a change in mowing height and watering will cause it to transition into a permanant lawn.

   How well does it work?  We've been ignoring the Seasons since we moved our company here in 1994.  And we've planted well over a thousand with this technique.  Winter, Spring Summer and Fall, our call-back ratio remains right around 1 out of every 100 lawns we plant!
 

I really debated including this...

   Why Don't Other HydroSeeders Do "Dormant Seeding"?  Sometimes customers want to know why do my competitors tell them "it's too cold to hydroseed."  And I avctually get a lot of calls from hydroseeders in other parts of the Country wanting to know how I do it.  So here goes:

   We'll start with climate.  In the Phoenix area we don't get much humidity in the Spring and early Summer when temperatures are warm enough to germinate the bermuda Family of grasses.  I moved here from a Southern California Desert community.  The Southwest is unique.  What I do might also work there because they have a similar (almost as) hot / dry climate...  I doubt if what I do would work in more humid parts of the Country like Texas or Georgia... 

   Except for plants in the Native Desert, nothing we want grows here without sprinklers.  (I hate to throw this in here, but that has a lot to do with the damage we cause to the soil / environment with chemical fertilizers - that's why we've gone organic...)  It's all about infrequent, deep watering.

   By controlling the mowing height and watering schedule, we can get the ryegrass incredibly deep rooted / heat tolerant without keeping the bermuda seed underneath it damp enough / long enough to try to germinate.  Then we can burn-out the ryegrass easily when it's time to germinate the bermudagrass under it by simply scalping it to less than 1/2" tall.  By the way, that's when the daytime temperatures are around 105 to 108 degrees. You just can't do that in a humid climate.

   What about cool season grasses?  In Southern Californa's "High Desert" and Mountain communities we often planted grasses like Tall Fescue in the middle of winter when it was too cold to germinate the seed. Funny thing is, seed has an "internal thermostat."  It doesn't have to be warm enough to germinate it to put it there.  It can easily sit there for months until it's time to start watering it.  Wait a minute, in the Northeast where they depend on Nature to germinate the seed, they often plant lawns in the middle of Winter.  It really all boils down to experience - knowing what to do when...  I don't really like to admit this but my first couple of years, like every other hydroseeder, I got my experience at the expense of my customers...

   It took years of testing to make what I do work everytime. If you don't do it right the first time, the callbacks could put you out of business.  There's no way that I can keep our watering instructions secret.  But I don't have to tell anyone how much of what seed I put in the mix (and it changes month to month depending on how cold it is when I plant it).

   If my competitor says "it's too cold to hydroseed," most likely he's a "part timer" who didn't take the time to figure out how to make it work like I did.  Ask questions and go with who you think knows what he's doing.  Personally, I wouldn't want to be part of a new guy's learning curve.  Would you?

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Nature's Way HydroSeeding
Post Office Box 1114
Queen Creek, AZ 85242
www.WhySod.com
(480) 540-9850
Email: 

If a search engine brought you to our web site, click here to make sure you're on our "home page."

Please Note: A few weeks ago the company that hosted our website and email for 10 years disappeared.  It's on a new server now, but some pages are still missing.  Over the next few weeks, I'll continue re-writing / updating it.  If what you're looking for isn't here, call me at 480-540-9850.

Our "on-line brochure" is here to solve a problem:  I had to make people wait until I found an off-ramp or stopped planting someone's lawn so I could address a brochure or fill-out a work-order.  Now it's easy to find out if what I do is right for you.

Providing just enough for a "favorable decision" leads to unhappy customers, call-backs and a very bad reputation.  I WANT INFORMED CUSTOMERS WHO REFER ME TO THEIR FRIENDS!

A piece of paper or a phone call can't provide enough information for an "informed decision."  So I tried to answer most of the questions people ask on the phone.  Click on links in the text or the FAQ section below:

   Why haven't I heard of Hydro-Mulching before?
   How does it work?
   Is it, HydroSeeding or Hydro-Mulching?
   How long will it take to become a Sod Quality lawn?
   How much does it cost?
   What do you mean "It's not Seasonal?"
   How do I prepare the soil?
   How can I make sure I won't get weeds?
   Can I plant over an existing lawn?
   Can Tifgreen, Santa-ana or Mid-iron be HydroSeeded?
  What do you mean, New Grasses?
   Exactly what is BlackJack?
   What if I have shade?
   What do previous customers say?
   What's "doing it the way we'd want it done" mean?
   What do you mean it's not for everyone?
   What's the watering schedule?
  What if I want a list of addresses?
   What is the Guarantee?
   Why are some other hydroseeders cheaper?

If you have questions please call me at 480-540-9850.   (I wear a headset so I won't have to stop working to talk.)  If you email questions, please include a call-back number.  I spend very little time in the office and a lot of time on freeways.  Sometimes it can take a week to find an hour to compose a written reply to a question that would take 5 minutes on the phone. 

When you're ready to schedule, SAVE $ 5.00 BY FILLING IN A WORK ORDER ON-LINE.  And if you have not installed sprinklers yet, CHECK OUR ADVICE ABOUT SPRINKLER SYSTEM DESIGN.

P.S.  I learned just enough "HTML" to write this web site.  (Yeah, I did it myself.)  I work on it when there's time (but something "more important" always seems to come up) so it's never been quite completed.  A few of the links don't work because I didn't get to them yet.  Feel free to Email suggestions for making the web site better. 

We're proud of our current or former membership in our industry's Trade Associations. Click on their logo to check out their web sites.

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